Due to its precise fits and shapes and the delicate but ungiving fabrics who limit large movements, traditional tailoring - eve in its most luxurious form - is a sector within the context of custom made clothing which is doomed to fade away from the needs of the current demand in menswear fashion.
With the hope of rectifying this comes 8on8 - contemporary menswear brand created by Central Saint Martin MA Fashion graduate Li Gong - which wants to explore the combination between traditional tailoring and casual wear. Inspired by contemporary outdoor lifestyle, 8on8 aims to be functional and comfortable, limiting the body and its movements as little as possible.
The 8on8 man strikes the perfect balance between having a poised look by wearing a tailored piece yet having a modern attitude toward his lifestyle, encouraged by achieving that ease of movements which shall inspire the comeback of classing tailoring into contemporary men’s wardrobes.For its SS18 collection named Cazh - which stands for casual - 8on8 gathered references from 1970s California, paring them with a reinvented version of Edwardian traditional tailoring.
Proposing a selection of some of the most significant features of the tailoring of that period with a much more modern, sporty approach - the jacket cushioned with thick shoulder padding and forcibly straightening the side seams - the balance of contrasting elements in this collection embodies 8on8 core value.
Focused on original cuts, balanced proportions and a gentle colour pallet, 8on8 portrays a youthful yet subversive sensibility and embodies a new take on menswear tailoring, one that shall speak to the youngest generations. The clean and sharp ethos of 8on8 starts with the design process and is transmitted to the wearer, who’s encouraged to retain a low key, yet striking attitude. Have faith in themselves. Pursue their goals.
BEHIND THE SCENES...
- The suits are short length and boxy, with high shoulder pads,waterproof zipped pockets and slit sleeves.
- The boxy shapes of the collection are inspired by British menswear fashion from Edwardian time. The collection presents a selection of some of the most significant elements of menswear tailoring of that time under a much more modern perspective.
- The trousers’ low rise cut allow for a clean shape, who's comfort is provided by a fitted yet comfortable fabric. The side pockets’ stretchy fabric in bold colours injects youth and energy to the look. The inside is made using traditional tailoring techniques and the nylon fabric used in the waistband lining is all hand sewn. The length is shortened to add an edgy, sexy look.
- The turtle neck knitted pieces feature an exclusive composition stretch fabric: soft, breathable but also warm.
- The gloves used in the runway looks reference hiking gloves used in California in the 70s.
- The fabric which mostly characterises 8on8 is an exclusive knitted stretch fabric composition, rightly waved and in bold colours. The stretch fabric provide both the structure of stiffer fabrics conventionally used in tailoring and the softness of knitwear.
- 8on8 likes to mix and match its exclusive fabric with others such as leather and woven fabrics. His ability to layer different textures shows the designers’ unique skills of combining classic craftmanship with modernity.
- The the colour pallet of SS18 collection is inspired by the 70th California active outdoor lifestyle’s and its warm colours. Stripes are mixed with colour blocks in an extremely colourful yet harmonious combination.
- The designer LiGong was the first Chinese graduate from Central Saint Martin to be awarded with the Grand Prix LVMH Scholarship. His graduation collection was praised by both Vogue’s Sarah Mower and BoF’s Tian Wei Zhang.